The Canoe Is the People
Indigenous Navigation in the Pacific
Role of the Wayfinders
Ua fili e le tai se agavaa - the sea tests the quality of a sailor.
Samoan saying
In Pacific communities, wayfinders are highly respected – not only for their practical skills but also for their wisdom. A wayfinder has to know huge amounts of information about the environment. Having access to navigational knowledge is an honour, and a navigator has a responsibility to use, protect, and pass on that knowledge in a way that best serves the community. He also has to live by the highest values — like modesty, respect, and patience. He is seen as the father of his crew and must protect them from danger. He is considered a wise leader, both on and off the canoe.
When wayfinders and their crews are away, the community sings to keep them safe and to be close to them.
The Wise Wayfinder (Yap, Micronesia)
A wayfinder from Yap taught wayfinding to his sons, Rongolap and Rongoschig. One day, Rongolap (the oldest) asked if he could journey to another island. His father agreed and gave Rongolap some advice. He said, “After you leave, you will see an old woman on the reef. You must stop and give her food. Then four rocks will appear. Your crew should sit at the first, stand up at the second, remove their hats at the third, and replace them at the fourth.”
Rongolap chose young men for his crew. After they set sail, they saw the old woman on the reef. But they didn’t stop! At the rocks, they mixed up all the instructions. After some time, they reached an island. The people there were real ghosts. They offered to clean the canoe. Then they took Rongolap and his men to two pools – one clean and one muddy. The men washed in the clean pool and then fell asleep. While they were sleeping, the ghosts ate them all!
When Rongolap didn’t return, Rongoschig decided to look for him. Unlike Rongolap, Rongoschig chose older men for his crew and followed all his father’s advice. When he arrived at the island, he didn’t let the ghosts clean the vaka. The crew bathed in the muddy pool and felt strong again. The ghosts waited for them to fall asleep, but they stayed awake all night… and the next day, Rongoschig and his men sailed safely home.